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Knowledge from the workshop

Understand first, then buy: cloth, trim and care.

This page is what we would otherwise explain to you on the phone. It helps you ask the right question — and helps us calculate a suitable quote faster.

Beilken SMM®

Which cloth suits your sailing — in direct comparison.

The overview matrix shows where each material has its strengths. There is no best cloth, only a suitable one.

Material

Shape stability

Service life

Weight

Recommended for

Price level

Dacron, woven

Good

8–12 seasons

High

Cruising yacht, Baltic and North Sea, furling mainsail

€

Dacron, premium

Very good

10–14 seasons

High

Blue water cruising, owners with high mileage

€€

Laminate (polyester)

Very good

5–8 seasons

Medium

Ambitious cruising yacht, club racing

€€

Laminate (aramid)

Excellent

4–7 seasons

Low

Racing, one design, pointing ability

€€€

Membrane, continuous fibre

Excellent

4–6 seasons

Very low

Racing sailors with result ambitions, megayacht

€€€€

Classic cloth, cream white

Good

8–12 seasons

High

Traditional yacht, wooden boat, historic design

€€

Price level as a guide from € to €€€€. Final price after measuring. Not a binding statement; the data are based on experience.

Cloth construction

What a sail is really made of.

Woven, laminate or membrane — the construction determines shape stability, service life and price. Four types in cross-section.

Drawing: woven Dacron — warp and weft crossing in a plain weave

Woven Dacron

Warp and weft cross alternately. Robust, easy to repair and good-natured when furling — but it gives most on the diagonal.

Drawing: Dacron and Dyneema blend — individual Dyneema yarns carry the main load

Blended fabric Dacron / Dyneema

Individual Dyneema yarns take the main load. Considerably more shape-stable than pure Dacron, but still a woven fabric.

Drawing: sandwich laminate in cross section — scrim between two films, taffeta on the outside

Sandwich laminate

A grid of threads lies straight between two films. Hardly any stretch, but more sensitive to creasing and ageing.

Drawing: membrane with continuous fibres — each fibre runs uninterrupted from corner to corner

Membrane with continuous fibres

The fibres follow the load lines in the finished sail. The lightest and most shape-stable construction — and the most expensive.

Sail cuts

The way the panels lie determines the shape.

Every cut distributes the load differently. These five variants cover everything — from cruising sail to racing sail.

Drawing: cross cut — panels run across the sail at right angles to the leech

Cross cut

Panels run horizontally from leech to luff. Easy to shape, and the leech can be controlled effectively.

Drawing: vertical cut — upright panels running parallel to the leech

Vertical cut

Upright panels from foot to head. Excellent for battenless mainsails with in-mast furling, good for small to medium boats.

Drawing: bi-radial cut — radial panels from head and clew meeting at a cross seam

Bi-radial

Two radial fields meet at a cross seam: the head radiates above, the clew below. For sails used across changing wind ranges, such as furling genoas.

Drawing: tri-radial cut — radial panels radiating from head, tack and clew

Tri-radial

Head, tack and clew radiate out and fill the entire area. The strongest cloth sits where the loads are highest — less stretch, longer-lasting shape.

Drawing: full-radial cut — all panels fan out from the tack across the whole sail

Full radial

Like tri-radial, but every panel is additionally divided into short segments. For small, sporty boats — and for battenless furling mainsails.

Trim

Three adjustments that do more than a new sail.

Before you invest, check these. Lost pointing ability often lies not in the cloth but in the trim.

01

Forestay tension

A sagging forestay makes the headsail full and costs pointing ability. Tension it until the telltale on the luff behaves the same in gusts and lulls.

02

Leech line

Pulled too tight, the leech closes and slows the boat. Set it so that the top telltale streams freely about 70 per cent of the time.

03

Batten tension

Battens should hold the profile, not push it. If there are creases across the batten it is too tight — a quarter turn is often enough.

Not sure which sail is right?

We take a look at your boat. During the trim appointment we go through the settings with you and note what can still be improved on the sail itself.

Request advice

Service & value retention

Have your sail repaired instead of replacing it too early.

A well-maintained sail lasts years longer. Small damage costs little to repair and saves a lot of substance.

Repair service

Tears, torn-out corners, defective fittings, new reef rows.

Sail cleaning

Salt, algae and mould removed without damaging the cloth. Including seam inspection and dry storage.

Care & trim

Appointment on board: check the profile, note the settings, brief the crew. Also available as a start-of-season check.

Buying & selling

Used sails checked, measured and honestly described — sell yours or get started affordably.

Please register your repair in advance.

Every repair gets a fixed slot in production. So please ask first via the form or by phone on +49 421 6753120 — we will confirm an appointment. Only then send or bring us your sail.

Register a repair

Area calculation

How we calculate sail areas.

With these formulas you can arrive at a reliable area yourself. For a quote we ultimately need the measured dimensions.

Drawing: mainsail area calculated from the rig dimensions P and E

Mainsail

(P × E) ÷ 2 without roach, P × E × 0.585 with roach. P is the luff along the mast, E the foot along the boom.

Drawing: headsail area calculated from I, J and the LP measurement

Headsail

(LP × I) ÷ 2. LP divided by J gives the overlap by which genoas and jibs are designated.

Drawing: spinnaker area calculated from SL, SMW and SF

Spinnaker

SL × (SMW + SF) ÷ 2 × 0.95. Symmetrical, calculated from leech length, maximum width and foot.

Drawing: gennaker area calculated from luff SL and foot SF

Gennaker

SL × SF × 0.8. Asymmetrical, calculated from luff and foot — the factor represents the camber.

Measuring points

Where "World Sailing" measures — and why that matters.

What is measured is not the seam but the notional intersection of the edges. Only then are measurements comparable between two sails.

Drawing: head point per World Sailing — the extended luff meeting the highest point of the sail

Head point

The extended luff intersected with the line through the highest point of the sail, at right angles to the luff (ERS G.4.2).

Drawing: tack point per World Sailing — notional intersection of luff and foot

Tack point

Intersection of luff and foot. Rounding and fittings are not taken into account.

Drawing: clew point per World Sailing — notional intersection of leech and foot

Clew point

Intersection of leech and foot — regardless of how the corner is finished.

Frequently asked questions

What owners ask us most often.

How quickly will I get a quote?

We usually get back to you within 2 working days. If your measurements are available, you will receive a binding quote straight away. Without measurements, we will contact you.

How long does production take?

For a custom-made mainsail allow four to six weeks from approval of the drawing. In winter it is usually faster; shortly before the start of the season we need more lead time.

Repair or build new?

That is decided by condition, not age. We inspect the sail and assess cloth, seams and corners. Then we tell you what a repair is still worth.

Do you come to the berth to measure?

By arrangement.

Do you build sails for classic yachts?

Since 1919. For many designs, historic patterns are in our archive. If documents are missing, we reconstruct the suit of sails from photographs, old sails and measurements taken on the boat.